Review: Desolas Mezcal

Desolas Mezcal is made from 100% Salmiana agave, sometimes called the “green giant” for its larger size, and which sometimes needs as much as 25 years to reach its prime. In addition to using a particular agave, Desolas is also distinctive among mezcals for its minimal smokiness, which results from the use of above ground ovens called “hornos,” which steam the agave instead of underground cooking, which smokes it. Let’s give it a try.

The nose is bright and inviting, mingling lemon citrus with deep herbal agave notes. The palate follows suit and offers additional complexity. The citrus and herbal notes come together well here, and they are joined by black pepper as well as an oily mouthfeel and a gentle sweetness that fit the profile nicely. There is a bit of an alcohol burn, and while it isn’t overpowering, it’s more pronounced than I would expect at this proof. The finish is fairly long as the flavors gently fade. I enjoyed this mezcal, and it will appeal to fans of tequila, though diehard mezcal aficionados might miss the typical smokiness.

80 proof. NOM F145D.